It is that time of day when we must talk about baking.
The Great British Bake Off in particular.
That is because if I don’t talk to you about baking I must deal with the monstrous pile of washing in the corner, and I don’t want to. It will only be replaced by another monstrous pile of washing and so on, into infinity and beyond, as any Buzz Lightyear kno.
Chiz.
The Great British Bake Off this week was all about the world of desserts. I am very interested in the way they classify the different skills that sit under the umbrella term ‘baking’. I want to know why the chocolate roulade they had to make this week is a dessert and not a cake, and why the profiteroles they had to make did not come under the title pastry? This issue of defining and labelling things is one that has been troubling me for some time. Not only in the world of baking, it has to be said. We had a heated debate in the Boo household this week as to whether a mattress is actually furniture or not. I suggested that technically it was more likely to come under the title of ‘soft furnishings’. Jason disagreed.
So, I ask any furniture experts out there, which of us is right?
I accept in advance the idea that both of us may be wrong. This has happened before.
Moving back to baking. The first challenge this week was to make a cheesecake. As the weeks go by I note that they are being even less formal about their instructions regarding the first challenge. This week the only criteria for the cheesecake was that it had to be baked. This clearly needed saying so they didn’t cheat a la Nigella and just stick a load of flavoured cream cheese on a biscuit base, wang it in the fridge and then spend the next two hours getting high and playing Happy Families with Mary and Paul.
Paul is Mr. Bun the Baker.
Next week, if this laxness continues they will probably be asked just to ‘knock something edible together using the contents of the fridge.’ I am not sure I like this new laissez faire attitude to the first round. Perhaps I am just being surly because they have totally put the mockers on my theory about signature dishes. I can go no further without added input.
It all smacks of Ready Steady Cook a bit. Which is never a good thing.
That’s all I’m saying.
Now. With the world of cheesecake the key thing, according to Mary, is not to let your crust split. I never knew this. I have made cheesecake on numerous occasions. I have just embraced the fissures as a kind of rugged, outdoorsy thing that give my cheesecake character. I did not realise it was verboten.
Having said that, I discussed this with my mum earlier and we agreed that it is a good job that we have baked many of the items show cased on the Bake Off without prior knowledge of how difficult they seem to be or how many things are not allowed, otherwise we would never have made them at all. Ignorance is bliss. This certainly seems to hold true in the world of baking.
And for most things in my world if I am being honest. The older I get, the more I listen to Radio 4, the more ineffectual I feel, the more the idea of a lobotomy is a comfort to me.
Each of the five ladies left on the Bake Off had a very different take on cheesecake. This is one of the things I love about the programme. It makes you think about possibilities you may like to eat/have a go at yourself later on. Holly made a Father Christmas cheesecake. Apparently in her house they give Santa cheesecake instead of mince pies on Christmas Eve. I love this idea. Mainly because I hate Mince Pies and being closely affiliated to Santa, as I am, I sometimes have to help out with the late night scoffage if he has overdosed on pies at other houses in the vicinity. Cheesecake would be a nice change.
If only Rudolph could be persuaded to embrace chocolate cornflake cakes instead of carrots, my life would be complete.
Holly’s cheesecake did not rock my world though, sadly. Firstly it had semolina in it (bleurgh) Even in its non school dessert form I do not like semolina. I have used it in various dishes, savoury and sweet, and it tastes a lot like grit from the bottom of a budgie’s cage. Secondly she had nuts and Christmassy spices in the cheesecake. Which is just wrong. I do not like Christmas spices. I am not a fan of cinnamon, or orange (except in the Terry’s Chocolate form), and I am not big on nuts.
Paul pronounced it too stodgy. Mary made that face. The one where you realise when you wake up in the morning that that last Flaming Sambucca was one too many and you were definitely wearing your wrong decision trousers at that point. Possibly on your head.
Mary Anne made something complex with a pastry rather than a biscuit base and did things with flavours that she labelled as tutti frutti. Again I was disappointed. I am coming to love Mary Anne, and I appreciate that she is a rogue trader in the world of baking, which is no bad thing, but tutti frutti just reminds me of bizarre Nineteen Seventies ice cream flavours with too much candied peel in.
No. I say.
Jo of the tiny voice made a rum and raisin cheesecake, to continue the theme of Seventies ice cream parlour world that we had unwittingly entered.
Yasmin started off brilliantly, making her own Amaretti biscuits for the base of her cheesecake. This was above and beyond. She was really trying to pull out all the stops this week. You could tell things were getting serious when she smacked Paul round the knuckles with her spatula as he was trying to inspect her biscuits. He looked shocked. I looked shocked. Yasmin looked a bit shocked herself.
I applaud her audacity, but I think it did her no favours. She was playing with fire. One does not rough up The Hollywood with a kitchen implement and live to tell the tale.
My favourite was Janet’s. Janet made a rhubarb cheesecake. Apart from the fact that it had an enormous crack down the middle, it was amazing. Janet, as usual, was amazed. Her continuing success on this week’s show only adds further fuel to my contention that she has been snatched by alien craft, probed with a giant icing bag and replaced by an intergalactic version of Delia Smith.
The second round was the technical challenge. Mary set the agenda, as she so frequently does. Paul, I have noticed, gets very little say in the world of technical challenges. It is the one round where he consistently has to play second fiddle to Mary. He is her technical challenge beehatch.
As with all things that look straightforward, like plastering or milking a cow, roulade is a nightmare. The difficulty is in the rolling. Not only was it the week of retro ice cream flavours. It was the week of cracks. You are allowed to have cracks in the carapace of your roulade, but you are only allowed to have artisanal, artistic ones. You are not allowed to have ruddy great fissures that people can fall down and drown in whipped cream in.
Which is a shame, because intergalactic Delia went off line during the roulade episode, and old Janet was allowed to inhabit her own body once more. It did not go well. Slathering together some crazy paving with whipped cream would have been better, frankly.
The final challenge was a behemoth. It was the monster truck of baking challenges. They had to make a croquembouche. This, for the uninitiated is a cone shaped mountain of profiteroles, glued together with caramel and decorated with spun sugar. It is to baking what the Bugatti Veyron is to the world of cars. It makes the macaroon challenge look like a walk in the park. Truly it was terrifying.
Apparently it usually takes a couple of days to make a croquembouche. The contestants had a mere five hours.
There are so many difficulties with this challenge. Firstly making choux pastry. Then using it to make over 100 profiteroles. Then heating sugar to 180 degrees to make the caramel. Then using it while it is still molten to stick your profiteroles together. etc, etc.
These difficulties were compounded by the fact that all the ladies had their dander up and were out to impress the judges big time. They all tried to add individual touches that made what was already complicated, so stressful and complex that even a giant brain like Stephen Hawking would have had a hard time keeping up.
Janet, who was back to channeling Delia, and Mary Anne both went for a separate nougatine style base to prop up their towers of pastry joy. Janet scaled back, probably worried that Delia would leave her again at any moment. Mary Anne went all out, with elaborate spun sugar and individually decorated profiteroles.
Holly was clearly still in festive mode and not only made an entire gingerbread city, complete with hard landscaping and wildlife to sit under her croquembouche, she also glued the entire thing together with chocolate instead of caramel. This was a tad risky, due to the fact that where caramel sets like superglue, chocolate does not. Realising the error of her ways about half way through, she added more chocolate and ended up with something that resembled a melting witches hat. It was not a good look.
Jo decided that she didn’t need to fill her profiteroles with straightforward creme patissiere, so she mixed it with whipped cream and limoncello. Very yum, but very unstable as she found two minutes before judging commenced when her tower of profiteroles folded gracefully in the middle as if Jackie Chan had delivered a mild karate chop to it in passing.
The worst however, was poor Yasmin, who was being karmically punished for her rough handling of La Hollywood earlier in the episode. Not only did she burn three lots of caramel, she also melted half her hand by dipping it into the molten sugar, meaning that a St. John’s Ambulance man got his fifteen seconds of fame rushing to her aid. On top of that, Mary was not impressed by her pink filling for the profiteroles.
Mary is wonderful. Paul is very forthright in what he says. He calls an icing bag an icing bag, but Mary is much more diplomatic, except when it comes to pulling faces. She has a whole range of interesting facial expressions which pretty much give you the sub text to what she is saying. When she said the words: ‘Pink filling’ her face screwed up much like Derek’s when forced to sniff something she considers to be the feline equivalent of stale old lady wee mixed with the cloying aftertaste of Yardley sandalwood talcum powder.
And that look was the signal that Yasmin’s career on the Great British Bake Off was well and truly over.
Next week’s semi final is all about the patisserie and I predict there will be much agonising over the Danish pastries.
Bring it on.








