You may recall that several aeons into the latest wrestling match with the CLD ™, I managed to crawl to London for a long awaited weekend alone. Well, alone apart from meeting up with the delightful and feted blogging superstar Ms. Belgian Waffle for lunch on Saturday that is.
I promised to tell all and then singularly failed, due to still being a Victorian consumptive, and also having a life that moves faster than Jensen Button round a hairpin bend.
Well, I am going to London on Wednesday, this time with Jason and the children in tow. Jason is going for work and has accommodation which will squeeze us all in, as long as we don’t mind stacking ourselves to the rafters. He is going to be slaving away until Friday, and we are going to go and play at being tourists en famille, and meet up with him after work for feasts and frivolities.
I suddenly realised that if I didn’t tell you about all the nice things I did on my last trip, I would run into a traffic jam involving all the things I am about to do on my forthcoming trip. So here, is a very potted version of what I did on my truncated summer holidays.
Firstly I went to the British Library, which is somewhere I have been meaning to go for years and years. I was meeting Ms. Waffle at the London Review Cake Shop in Bloomsbury, which is about ten minutes walk from St. Pancras, where my train arrives. The British Library is on Euston Road, which is literally two minutes walk from St. Pancras. I took an early train, came out of the railway station, turned right and spent a diverting two hours in the library before continuing on my onward journey.
It was lovely. I highly recommend it, even though it looks a bit like a gymnasium via The People’s Republic of China.

There are statues by Anthony Gormley, a cake shop by Peyton & Byrne, which I tested and which passed the test of having extraordinarily good short cake. There is a wonderful book shop, which you would expect, being as how it’s the British Library and all. There are also lots of free exhibitions, one of which, Magnificent Maps, was exceptionally interesting and amongst other treasures, had a huge Mappa Mundi by the ever glorious Grayson Perry.
In the main exhibition space you can see The Magna Carta, stunning illuminated texts from the major religions of the world, original drawings from Alice in Wonderland and other fabulously mouth watering literary specimens. Some of the displays also have listening stations where you can hear the authors reading from their own works.
The building is well thought out, beautiful and intriguing and I could easily have spent the rest of my day there. If you have any interest in books or manuscripts at all you will love it.
With time ticking on I trotted through Bloomsbury to the London Review Cake Shop, which is right next to the London Review Book Shop. Not wanting to be late I was in fact a few minutes early and succumbed to the latest Tove Jansson, Travelling Light. It is a beautiful, independent book shop full of the little gems that independents seem to do so well. Through an arch in the History section you move through to the cake shop, which is also fabulous. We drank wonderfully scented Jasmine tea out of divine, Japanese inspired glass tea pots on little wooden stands, and I can vouch for the deliciousness of their smoked salmon sandwiches.
In the afternoon Ms. Waffle had to drift off to hob nob with some fashionistas. I limped over to Covent Garden for a spot of retail therapy before heading off to Marylebone, where I just had to pop in on Daunt Books to make sure they weren’t missing me too much. I ended up having dinner at Cafe Luc on Marylebone High Street, somewhere my friend Bronxbee had sent me details of, asking me if I could check it out. Ironically it is a Belgian bistro, given who I ate lunch with. In her honour I ate delicious Moules Marinieres with crisp, salty frites, and had salted caramel and speculoos flavoured ice cream for dessert. It was delicious.
My hotel was just off Gloucester Road, and I won’t recommend it, because it was distinctly average. Clean, functional and quiet, but nothing to rave about.
On Sunday, with the whole day to myself I decided to go to the Museum of London, as recommended by Mrs. Jones. I had a fantastic time. It was one of the most interesting museums I have been in for years and years. I particularly liked the art installation in the foyer, which was a wall of tweets and text messages from Londoners, all sent within a three mile radius of the museum. The Roman and Medieval galleries were spectacularly good, and another art exhibition I liked was one in which the museum curators had paired up old paintings of London with new London artists and asked them to reinterpret the work using their own knowledge of contemporary London. The pictures were hung side by side in the gallery and were really fascinating to study. It was a genius way of displaying their art collection and I was thoroughly impressed. Their cafeteria passes muster with good carrot cake too by the way.
I lunched at Dishoom, a place in Covent Garden which claims to be just like a Nineteen Fifties Bombay cafe. I don’t know whether it was, as I’ve never been to Bombay, particularly not in the Nineteen Fifties, but the food was good and the concept was quirky, which I liked. I ate black dahl, with freshly cooked chapattis and it was lovely. I also loved the big pile of multi-coloured bicycles they had outside to draw in passers by:

After lunch I went to the Design Museum on Shad Thames, somewhere else that has been on my to do list forever. It was expensive to get in, at £8.50 for a ticket, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. The first floor was an exhibition of the competitors in the Brit Insurance Designs of the Year, which ranged from Fashion to political activisim to furniture design. The top floor were showing an exhibition by a man who has taken photographs of all the capital cities of all the countries in Africa, and another exhibition about sustainable eco designs in cities. It was really interesting, although I wouldn’t recommend it if a) you aren’t truly passionate about design, because it isn’t one of those places you will enjoy if you are only slightly interested, and b) if you have children. There were no hands on exhibits, no kid friendly corners and no places to sit down or corrall them.
On my way back across Tower Bridge I popped into a church, All Hallows by the Tower. Mainly I was hot and fancied a sit down in peace and quiet. It turned out to be an excellent place to sit, and then have a tour, for free, by an extremely knowledgeable and friendly tour guide. I think I enjoyed it more than all the rest of the weekend put together. It is a truly rich experience if you are in the least bit interested in history. The church was bombed during the blitz, and when they were reconstructing it after World War II they were able to uncover literally thousands of years of archeology, which they have preserved as much as possible of. You can stand in the crypt on the remains of a Roman pavement and be surrounded by two thousand years of archaeological material. It blew my tiny mind. They have everything from rare Anglo Saxon stone crosses to the marriage certificate of John Quincy Adams, and birth marriage and death records that go back to the 1600′s.
I had a fabulous weekend which was all about me, me, me and I loved every minute of it. This week things will be a little different. The bank will be broken for a start. The children and I are doing London Zoo on one day, at the most staggeringly expensive ticket prices known to man, and The Tower of London another day. Tourist meccas I grant you, but perfect for children. Tilly is worried about the dungeons. I am worried Oscar will fall into the architecturally award winning penguin enclosure. That is, if we get that far after Tallulah has inevitably tried to smuggle out a spectacled bear and we have all been arrested.