Ooh, the shops!
There are so many. Ha! It’s great.
Department Stores
Harrods - I know it’s cheesy and predictable, but really, everyone should go to Harrods once. There are two things in Harrods that I consider essential. The rest you can keep. Firstly the food halls. These are wonderful. The design of them is sumptous and luxurious, almost baroque. It makes you hungry just looking. Then there’s the fact that there are lots of little cafes in the middle of the different food halls, where you can sample the wares and try all different kinds of cuisine. There is also a branch of Laduree (and a shop in Burlington Arcade off Piccadilly) in Harrods, where they sell macaroons which are to die for. Not to be missed. The second thing is the toy department. It is, in my opinion, much better than Hamleys (Regent Street), and way more fun. To get there, take the Piccadilly line to Knightsbridge. It is directly outside the store. On the other hand, it is always rammed at this stop. I prefer going one stop further to South Kensington and then walking up Brompton Road. Not only can you pass by the V&A and the beautiful Brompton Oratory, but you can saunter past the window of Armani too.
Harvey Nichols – If you are going to do Harrods you might as well pop in to Harvey Nichols. It’s only about two hundred yards up the road. It’s great fun and the bar on the top floor is delicious and very stylish. A must if you were ever a fan of Absolutely Fabulous.
Selfridges - I love Selfridges. I could spend a whole day in there, easily. Where Harrods is opulent, Selfridges is chic and fun and stylish. I love the building too. It has carvings by Eric Gill outside and the front doors are the epitome of Art Nouveau style. Take the tube to Bond Street, turn left, keep walking and it is on your right. There are several entrances and it takes up a whole block.
Heals - Heals is predominantly furnishing and interiors but it is one of my favourite shops. It’s on Tottenham Court Road, right opposite Goodge Street tube station. It is beautiful. I love it there. It is calm, stylish, wonderful and needful.
Liberty - is not to be missed. At the back of Regent Street and the edge of Carnaby Street it is a stunning half timbered, galleried building which is packed to the rafters with needful items. The fabrics are amazing, the furniture department is droolsome and the perfumes are practically edible.
Fortnum and Mason – On Piccadilly High Street, this smells like you’ve died and gone to chocolate heaven as soon as you set foot in the door. The ground floor is a patisserie, chocolatier and general food paradise. Upstairs is a restaurant and marvellous china department. You can also order your hampers here. In the basement is everything else, if you have any money left.
Clothes
I expect if you have a fifteen year old with you that Top Shop on Oxford Street is going to be a must. I’ve only been in there once. It melted my tiny mind.
If you’re looking for designer gear then New Bond Street, and the streets surrounding it are made for you. From Jimmy Choo to Stella McCartney and Louis Vuitton, it’s all here.
Book Shops
Charing Cross Road is the traditional haunt for book shops. You can either use Leicester Square tube or Tottenham Court Road. It’s great for second hand book, speciality and antiquarian book shops. Further down towards the National Portrait Gallery if you turn down all the little alleyways off the main road you will come across more book and print shops including one of the oldest esoterica book shops in the country. There is also a huge branch of Foyles, which stocks just about everything, and a Blackwells, which is great for text books. Blackwells should really be saved for Oxford though, which is its home. There it is spectacular and has several branches, including its own dedicated children’s bookshop. On Charing Cross Road it is mostly meh.
Hatchards on Piccadilly is probably the most famous bookshop in London. It’s certainly the oldest. Well worth a visit if you like your book shops oozing with history.
Daunt Books – I have blogged about Daunt endlessly in the past. There are a few branches in London. For my money the absolute best of them is on Marylebone High Street. It is gorgeous, stocked full of wonderful things you will not find anywhere else and one of my favourite places in the entire world.
Stanfords – Between Leicester Square and Covent Garden tube stations, Stanfords is the place for maps, travel books and any travel writing. It is a treasure trove of travel related things. Their cafe is not bad either, but I would watch out for the wooden knives and forks, which suck all the moisture out of your mouth as you are eating and you end up resembling a cat’s arsehole.
London is also full of independent book sellers who deserve your patronage to keep them open. Two of my favourites are in Highgate, on Highgate High Street, and in Primrose Hill. Small, eclectic and with hugely knowledgeable staff. They are both also excellent places for star spotting. I once queued behind Terry Gilliam in the Highgate bookshop. I nearly wet my pants with excitement. How cool is that?
I thought about picking out individual shops, but the post would take an absolute age. Instead I will share some of my favourite shopping areas.
Marylebone High Street – This is one of my shopping meccas. Apart from Daunt Books, there is an Emma Bridgewater store, a Conran shop, Paul and Joe, Diptyque, Aveda and countless other desirable places to shed money. There is a wonderful Oxfam bookshop, a branch of Waitrose which I frequent and lots of lovely places to eat. Off one of the side roads is the amazing ribbon shop V. V. Rouleaux which is just gorgeousness personified, and all in all it’s wonderful.
Islington - Take the tube to Angel. When you come out of the station if you turn right and keep walking there are all sorts of treasures. The road kind of forks. Take the left fork on the main road out towards Holloway and you will find lots of wonderful restaurants, great shops and places like the independent cinema, the Everyman Screen on the Green, which is a fabulously intimate cinema showing all kinds of cool things, and the Almeida theatre, which also has a great cafe/bar and a restaurant across the road which is supposed to be wonderful. Take the right fork and find yourself in a terrific maze of streets stuffed with antique shops selling the most wonderful collection of things imaginable.
Seven Dials - I blogged about this area between Covent Garden, The Strand and Tottenham Court Road before. I love it. Lots of fabulous shops, quirky boutiques, retro stores and vintage clothes shops. Perfect shopping for when you do War Horse on Drury Lane.
Hampstead – The tube station brings you out at the top of Hampstead High Street, an incredibly vertiginous hill that has lovely shops, wonderful bars and restaurants and a great atmosphere. Off the High Street to the left, treat yourself to an amble down the gorgeously quaint, Flask Walk, its antiquarian book shop and bijou boutiques. Paul’s Cookies, tucked down a street off the road that goes across the High Street sells freshly baked, still warm cookies where the chocolate chips ooze decadently into your mouth. Walking down the High Street, any of the roads to the left take you down to the wonderful Heath. Walk across the Heath, go swimming in the ladies pond, or take the bus and go to Kenwood House on Spaniard’s Lane half way between Hampstead and Highgate. Kenwood is wonderful, a Georgian confection with huge, empty rooms bedecked with priceless art. The grounds are terrific and the tea room is an absolute must. Or you can pop down one of the roads down between Hampstead High Street and the Heath houses and visit Keats’ house, which you can wander round. It’s beautiful.
If you’re feeling really active you can walk all the way down the hill until you reach Camden at the bottom. The bit between Hampstead and Camden is Belsize Park and that’s got another Everyman Cinema, some great restaurants of its own, and its own branch of Daunt Books.
Chelsea – For the best shopping experience take the tube to Sloane Square. You come out next to the Royal Court Theatre, which is a must if you like new plays. It’s very hip and happening. Walk up the road in front of you. You are in the heart of Chelsea. You have got Rigby and Peller for immaculately fitted bras and frou frou lingerie, the Kings Road for boutiques, Bluebird for fabulous eats, the Saatchi gallery and all manner of amazing shops.
Greenwich, which I mentioned previously, has a lovely, villagey feel, some tremendous museums, a great Sunday market and stunning parks. It’s well worth a visit.
Highgate, which I have also mentioned, is a lovely place. Apart from the cemetery there are woods you can wander around, and the architecture is still really pretty. There is also Waterlow Park, which has a lovely tea room, and Lauderdale House, which often has art exhibitions or theatrical happenings going on. The shops, which are mostly boutique style affairs come and go, and there are a liberal sprinkling of estate agents at all times and seasons, but there is always something delightful to see. If you are coming by tube it is easier to go to Archway tube station, which is at the bottom of Highgate Hill and take the bus up the hill. If you go to Highgate tube you will have a ten minute walk to Highgate High Street itself, which although not unpleasant, can be avoided.
St John’s Wood – Round the corner from the tube station is a small road of lovely cafes, bakeries and boutiques. There used to be an excellent Oxfam shop where I once got an Alaia dress for an absolute steal. A few minutes walk towards Kentish Town and Regents Canal is Abbey Road where you can pose on the same crossing as the Beatles.
Primrose Hill – I’ve already mentioned. It’s lovely, but bijou. It’s good to combine it with either trips to Camden or Highgate. If you’re going from Primrose Hill to Camden don’t forget to check out Marine Ices on the main road from Chalk Farm tube station to Camden High Street. Ice cream to die for.
London is full of hidden treasures and lovely areas which still retain an individual identity and feel. You could spend a life time visiting them and exploring. These are just some of my favourites. I realise that they are predominantly north of the river, but then I was a North London girl. There are just as many beautiful places South of the river, if not more. I haven’t mentioned Lavender Hill or Hampton Court or Richmond or Putney or Chiswick, and they’re all lovely places to visit, let alone having lovely shops that will empty your purse in minutes.
I never mentioned the joys of Covent Garden, because it seemed so obvious I quite forgot about it until now, but you can shop in the covered market, watch the buskers, take in the Opera, visit the ballet and get pampered at the Sanctuary, all within minutes of each other.
Or then there’s the City on a weekend when it’s completely quiet and deserted and you can drift around looking at medieval churches cheek by jowl with glass and chrome sky scrapers, modern hotels nestled against the remains of Roman city walls, the oldest synagogue in Britain right by the Gherkin, the Barbican minutes away from Smithfield meat market. It’s all there to see and it’s like no other city on earth, and I hope you will love it like I do.
Enjoy.