I am back. Begrimed, weary and footsore, but having had a very lovely time indeed.
Timings were a bit tight, it has to be said. Our matinee was at two thirty. We had planned to set off around nine thirty to give ourselves plenty of time. We do not like to rush. We are old dodderers now. We like to creep along with plenty of stops for toilet usage and cake buyage and things. We wanted civilised lunch, to have a wee somewhere that wasn’t a theatre toilet and to saunter in rested and relaxed just as the curtain rose. This was the plan.
Then there was what really happened. Andrea had to feed cows and go into work at the last minute. This meant she didn’t turn up until nearly ten. When she did turn up I wasn’t nearly ready due to the fact that I had pottered about in my pyjamas reading the paper and staring into space. Oh yes, and there was the three loads of laundry, the delivery of the Ocado order and the breakfasting with a small, fierce boy to fit in as well.
When we finally set off it dawned on us that London was the site of the G20 summit thingy and that delays were likely, nay inevitable. Instead of going to see Graham Norton shaking his booty in lycra and feathers we were likely to be held up somewhere near Westminster Bridge with a load of anarchists and the flying squad.
We stopped at the service station and stocked up on M&S sandwiches and cakes in case of the worst.
We never made it to the excitement of the demonstration. We ended up being stuck on the main drag through Cricklewood and Kilburn for nearly an hour instead. Not the most salubrious of places to be jammed, it has to be said. Only a few miles further in and we could have been wedged in with the finer people of Maida Vale. Such is my lot.
We were staying in Borough. Our sat nav did us proud until we got within 1 mile of our destination when it decided to send us up several roads which were impassable because:
- They were one way streets (sat navs are not good at one way streets)
- They were being dug up (sat navs are not good at builders sitting round large holes drinking tea)
- They had bollards at the end of them (Bollards!)
After twenty minutes of travelling further and further away from the destination, including having to do an interesting U turn near Borough Market when we realised how close we were to going over the river again, we gave up and used the A-Z.
When we got to our abode the paperwork wasn’t ready, the apartment wasn’t ready and I had to plead with them to give us our parking space early. In the end, due to my haggard face, the lumps of beef sandwich in my hair and my threats to have a huge Violet Elizabeth style temper tantrum on the floor, we got our space.
We hurtled over the road to the tube station and made it to the theatre with a mere thirty minutes to spare. By the time we had queued for the hideous, damp smelling subterranean toilets for ten minutes we were about ready to kill ourselves. We decided against a drink at the bar and went for a brisk walk to the Waterstones on the corner of Trafalgar Square instead. This may seem counterintuitive to those of you who think a stiff drink may have been just the thing at that moment. Mostly I would agree, but here is the thing.
Usually we go and see what people think of as high brow theatre, Shakespeare, Marlowe, Beckett etc. We don’t usually do ‘Up West’ theatre like Cabaret and Cats. That’s not to say we don’t always enjoy them, because we sometimes do. It’s just that we enjoy the other stuff more. Because we don’t do ‘Up West’ very often it is easy to forget the theatre going habits of the majority of people in this country. Here’s what happens.
Most people treat going to the theatre like a ‘big’ event. They get dressed up. They do ‘dinner and a show’. They have drinks. They have interval drinks. They get a bit theatrical themselves. Going to the loo is an ordeal, ordering drinks takes on the planning skills needed to co-ordinate the Normandy landings. There are a lot of anxious people in a very small space and most of them are in heels. This is fine. It is an event. They probably don’t go very often, the tickets cost a bloody fortune and they want the best. Fair play to them. It does however make a change from the usual calibre of theatregoer we mix with, nonchalant old hands who have their own bottle of gin with their name on it behind the bar and usually live in the props cupboard. They don’t get stressed, mainly because they are pissed, and also because they see a lot of theatre. This makes for a fairly relaxed theatregoing experience.
West End London theatres are usually quite small. They are ornate and have nasty carpets, funny stair cases, lots of rococo plasterwork and inadequate toilet and bar facilities. This makes the initial hysteria of the novice theatre goer even worse. What generally happens is that by twenty minutes before the show you’ve got someone with their skirt tucked into their pants trying to buy six programmes and order fourteen gin and tonics in a space the size of a broom cupboard while clutching Aunty Dierdre’s hand for support, with nine hundred other people closing in on her all wanting to do the same thing.
It gets a bit oppressive.
So we left.
Then we took our seats once most people had pulled their skirts out from their pants, had a stiff gin and sat down.
It works much better that way.
We slouch in in our jeans and make sure we have the exits marked so we can make a quick getaway once everything is over.
This worked for us and we really enjoyed the show. Graham Norton was not made to be a drag queen. It was fascinating. He looks lithe and dapper dressed as a man, put him in a shimmering lurex gown and he looks like a brick shit house with false eyelashes. The transformation was remarkable. Nevertheless he was funny and witty and his timing was superb. It was a wonderful piece of ridiculous fluff and we loved it. We have decided not to be drag queens when we grow up. It looks exhausting, and a lot of waxing and folding must be going on that I could frankly live without.
The play was long. By the time it finished we had just enough time to gallop back over the river, grab some dinner and then gallop to the Young Vic to see Pete doing his Lear.
The Young Vic was a totallly different kind of experience. Not many glammed up people, lots of artistic and dramatic types and us. It is all very experimental and ‘built in a shed’. I haven’t been there since a disastrous trip to see Romeo and Juliet in my fifth year on the night of the Kings Cross Railway disaster when due to the fact that people were burning to death underground we got stuck in traffic and missed the whole first half. This was horrible enough. Watching the second half was enough to emblazon on my brain the thought that this was probably the worst version of Romeo and Juliet I will ever half see and made me fervently wish I’d stayed at home and eaten chocolates instead.
This time they had reserved our seats in the wrong play and given me three tickets instead of two. By the time we had sorted out the mess there was no time to have a drink should we even have wanted one.
It was a long play. We went in at 7.15 p.m. and came out at 11.00 p.m. Pete was fantastic, the Fool was fantastic and Cordelia wasn’t a weedy wet milksop, which is great. On the other hand Edgar seemed to have a speech impediment and drooled more than an elderly boxer dog and I really didn’t get the references to Irish sectarian violence and home rule. It was terrifyingly modern, although I’d pay all over again to see Pete Postlethwaite stalking about the stage in a tea gown with a broken parasol, so all was well.
We finally checked in to our apartment at midnight. A long, long day.
Today we got up at the crack and went on our walk round subterranean London which was very cool. Go if you want to learn a lot about Victorian sewers, how to build your own tube station, how to stop Big Ben falling over and secret tunnels round the MOD. It was great fun, although my feet were neon, throbbing lumps of gristle by the time we had done. It’s the most exercise I’ve had voluntarily in the last twenty years.
This afternoon we ate a late and glorious lunch at St. John in Farringdon. It was delicious. I had pickled mackerel and potato salad followed by roasted pigeon with sauteed radish and potatoes. Then I had the most enormous piece of chocolate cake that was so rich and moist and dark that even I couldn’t finish it. Andrea had mussels cooked with cucumber, Gloucester Old Spot pork chops and vanilla and lemon curd ice cream. We were stuffed and it took all our energy to stay awake on the drive home. I may never eat again, until next time.
It was worth all the anguish. It was worth everything. A weekend in London is better than a shot of heroin straight into the main vein. It is euphoric and wonderful and every time I go I wonder why I left and if I’m ever going to get back there and how unfair it is that I have to leave. I love every inch of it, all the dirt and bustle and noise. It’s wonderful. Sigh!